Sullivan's Gold Toning Method

for Platinum and palladium prints
For gold toning I devised a method that is superior to the often-printed Dolland method. The amounts are not critical and can be adjusted to suit individual needs. In a totally self-serving manner I call this the Sullivan method.

Make sure the print is fully cleared and washed. One or two baths in dilute 2% hydrochloric acid will help but is not necessary.
Add the gold to the sodium formate and water Sol A. The clock has now started, you will need to use it now. Put in the print and observe toning. It will tone faster under a bright light. Toning may take as long as 10 minutes. You must stop when the slight yellow color of the toning solution starts to disappear or else staining will occur.
When the proper tone is achived quickly put the print in bath of 5 ml of concentrated out of the bottle HC110 and 500 ml or water or straight stock Dektol. This will reduce out the remaining gold in the print. This step is necessary or else the print after it dries will look like it was printed on a brown paper bag..
Wash thoroughly and dry.
The trick with this method is to stop before you get to the point you'd like to get to with the toning. Even a very slight toning will pop the dmax very nicely, but it is very hard to observe while it is happening. Staining is the biggest problem and it will happen if you go too long. Quit while you're ahead. The toner cannot be used again. The more formate the faster the toning and the bigger risk of staining. Less or more gold also controls the depth and amount of toning. The palladium in the print will tone in the red-purple range and the gold in the blue purple range. I've gotten nice rosy red pd prints and blue black pt ones.
This method will not stain the highlights as Dolland method invariably does. It also uses far less gold than the Dolland method.
Dick Sullivan